Wine guide
Producers
Domaine René Lequin-Colin
Like most excellent viticulturists, Francois Lequin believes that the best Chardonnays are made in the vineyard and not in the cellar. Hailing from a family of winemakers since 1679, Francois says that “we have wine, not blood, running through our veins”. Now owning 9 hectares in Santenay, Chassagne Montrachet, Pommard and Nuits Saint Georges, their whites wines are among some of the best in the region.
A viticultural heritage for a modern era
Family owned without interruption, the estate began its life as Domaine Lequin Roussot, before becoming René Lequin Colin (the Colin being gained after Rene’s marriage to Josette Colin of the noted viticultural family, who was given several parcels as a wedding present). However, after Francois’ arrival in 1992 the original estate was divided between brothers Rene (Francois’ father) and Louis (Francois’ uncle). Several jointly owned Colin/Lequin parcels remain in production today. With young blood at the helm, Francois looked to update the viticultural methods for all their wines, although notably their Chardonnays for which they were becoming famous. He started by hand harvesting, converting his estate to organic farming, ploughing the vine lanes by horse to control weeds. Biodynamic ideas were introduced in 2010, then Ecocert certified in 2012, Francois’ mandate - of producing terroir-driven wines in an environmentally sustainable way - has paid off.
The three P’s: Palate Precision and Purity
He now produces five whites (and two rather lovely Pinot Noirs) all known for their freshness and brightness. Interestingly for French wine, Francois has turned to screw caps, although competitors have yet to follow. A recent collaboration with American Airlines’ “Cellar in the Sky” programme has given René Lequin Colin a huge following Stateside.
Notable facts and vintages
  • 2016 Domaine René Lequin-Colin’s Back to the Roots Chardonnay made Jancis Robinson’s “The Best White Wines to Drink at Christmas” list in 2018, described as “Bone dry and savoury, in the classic Burgundian fashion, at a very fair price for a Côte d’Or wine. Racy and transparent.” The 2015 vintage made the Gold List for UK’s Sommelier Wine Awards.
  • Domaine René Lequin-Colin Clos Devant qualified for the Sommelier Wine Awards’ Gold List two consecutive years for the 2014 and 2015 vintages respectively.
  • 2012 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru received 95 points from Robert Parker Wine Advocate. With an anticipated maturity in 2030, generous critic scores combined with value pricing and finite supply, expeditiousness is key for investment.