The complete revival of Germany’s fine wine industry can, perhaps, be attributed to a handful of producers. But Klaus-Peter Keller, who took over his family’s winery in 2001, has been more influential than most.

No stranger to the fields, Klaus-Peter is just the last in a long line of male Kellers who have been at the helm of the legendary vineyard since 1789. Keller’s sons, Max and Felix (just eight and six years old) will undoubtedly be the next. Based in the Rheinhessen, Keller produces some of Germany’s most complete fine wines; his Rieslings are made in the image of their maker; dry, noble and sweet. An under-the-radar producer for over two centuries, Klaus-Peter’s father Klaus began raising the bar on his family’s wine in the 1980s. He gained a reputation for making high ranking Rieslings, turning the years of traditional winemaking on its head and rapidly became the most prized winemaker in the region. Klaus-Peter follows in his father’s footsteps “if you want to produce fine wine”, he says, “you have to know what fine wine is about”.

No one when talking about the winery could omit to mention the old-vine cuvée G-Max. Reigning as the world’s most expensive dry Riesling, the wine wins equal acclaim from critics and fine wine investors alike. So protective of the wine, Keller will not reveal its source, fearing that the grapes could be stolen. And if that sounds a bit much, it is because it is exactly that has actually already happened. Coveted, rare and by far the finest of them all, G-Max Riesling is almost a virtual wine – so little of it is made and it is often out of stock. You’ll need to dig deep for a bottle of this: averaging around €3,000 a bottle (regardless of vintage), it may a sure thing, but it’s not cheap.