Wine guide
Bruno Giacosa
If you do not know the name of this fantastic producer then read on; you're in for a treat.
Bruno Giacosa, who sadly died in early 2018, was considered one of Italy’s greatest wine
producers of all time. His Falletto vineyard in Serralunga d’Alba is one of the finest crus of
the Langhe, his perfectionism was legendary and his accolades were many. To say that he was
Italian wine royalty is an understatement. Maker of “Italy’s best-ever wine” - a 1971 Santo
Stefano Barbaresco Riserva Speciale - when the great man passed, Italy mourned.
A leader among men
Like many Piedmont legends (Angelo Gaja springs to mind), Giacosa came late to owning terroir.
He began his long and illustrious career by helping his grandfather on the family estate at the
age of just 13. In 1960 he took hold of the reins of the business and, although he was still
buying fruit from other farmers, he revolutionised the region’s thinking by bottling his Barolo
and Barbaresco on site, paving the way for many others. It was not until he was 50+ that he
became a land-owner in his own right and his famed perfectionism didn’t stop there. Unafraid to
declassify entire harvests (his 2006 vintage serves as an example), to say that Bruno Giacosa is
responsible for some of Italy’s best ever wines would be nothing but the truth.
A contender for Italy’s most expensive wine?
His single vineyard wines are legendary. Michaela Morris, Italian wine expert for Decanter
magazine says, “the most memorable bottle was his 1978 Barbaresco Santo Stefano Riserva
Speciale. It was served to me blind in 2012 and I almost wept for its sheer haunting beauty.
When the wine was revealed I believe I did.” Not only is this extremely rare bottle extremely
hard to find, but it is also extremely expensive. As of 2019, only one bottle could be sourced
on the open market and it was priced at €3,250. The 1971 is not for sale.
Despite it still being very early days after the great man’s demise, his daughters Bruna and Marina who today run the vineyard seem to have inherited the family’s golden DNA. Bruna has been at the helm of the winery since 2006 so we firmly believe her father’s legacy is well looked after.
Despite it still being very early days after the great man’s demise, his daughters Bruna and Marina who today run the vineyard seem to have inherited the family’s golden DNA. Bruna has been at the helm of the winery since 2006 so we firmly believe her father’s legacy is well looked after.
Notable facts and vintages
- 2014 Barolo Falletto: this “outstanding” current release is noted for its “Great sense of terroir and typical harmony and style from this producer. A few years will offer greater complexity, as the aromatics are a bit tight as of now. Peak in 15-20 years.” by wine writer Tom Hyland for Forbes, April 2019. In June 2018 Monica Larner for Wine Advocate offered her 95 points. Prices are up +50% in the one year period from February 2018, and climbing.
- Labeled “Riserva” only in the best vintages, Bruno Giacosa’s 1989 Barolo Riserva Collina Rionda was the very first Italian fine wine to receive a “Perfect Score” of 100/100 from the man himself, Robert Parker.
- Prices historically compared to second growth wines of Bordeaux, Barolo is expected to reclaim its top position for Italian fine wines in the market, as indicated in January 2019 by The Drinks Business’ head of trading Paul Regan, who recommends investors “Stick to big names like Giacomo Conterno and Bruno Giacosa and you should do rather well.”