Like a phoenix rising from its ashes, Bordeaux fine wine Chateau Lagrange has excelled itself in the past four decades. A St. Julien third growth that was, for many, undeserving of its status, today there is nothing strange about Lagrange.

Lagrange started well. There is historical documentation mentioning grape growing on the left bank land as far back as 1631, it has had a host of notable owners, including Baron Mouton (of Mouton Rothschild) and its avant-garde drainage system was the envy of properties all around. Thomas Jefferson had become a fan, and in 1855 it was classed among the illustrious third growths. However, the massive 280 hectare estate was nearly impossible to manage and by the mid-1800s the owners began downsizing. The first sale reduced the size of the property to 157 hectares, leaving a still very large property. Other plot sales would follow over the next 100-plus years, decreasing the property to “just” the 118-hecacre that it is today.

It was during these fateful 100 years of downsizing that Lagrange’s quality began to plummet. Mismanagement, lack of funds and over-production had all but ruined the estate by the late 1970s. Some of the best plots had been sold (in 1972 32 acres were sold to Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou) and the estate was in desperate need of some TLC.

Help came in 1983, in the shape of the Japanese liquor company Suntory. Suntory had already purchased the chateau in 1925, but had thus far not been involved in the winemaking. The much needed cash injection was exactly what the property needed to regain - and exceed - its full potential. This involved completely restructuring the wine making facilities, cellars and vineyards, increasing the vine density and focusing on quality staff. Over the next two decades, under the direction of Marcel Ducasse, Lagrange was restored back to le greatness.

Even by the standard of other Medoc vineyards, Lagrange is still very large. To put this into perspective, average yield at Lagrange is around 300,000 bottles a year, amounting to almost 10% of all Medoc wines (fine and table included). The high yield of the vineyard is a double edged sword - certainly the wine is excellent and expertly managed, but avail so high, one wonders if demand will ever outstrip supply.