Wine guide
Ruinart
When it comes to defining the world’s greatest Champagne, the jury is out. Should it be based on aeons of history, respected and illustrious producers who have been based in the region for generations? Should it be based on terroir, closely guarded winemaking techniques and long cellar times? Should it be based on the French government’s strict rule that only grapes grown in the 86,000 acres of land can carry the name Champagne? Or should it simply be the one that you like the most?
Or should it be the one that ticks all the boxes? Enter Ruinart, with its unique bottle shape (an homage to the historic bottles from the XVIII century), could just be it.
Or should it be the one that ticks all the boxes? Enter Ruinart, with its unique bottle shape (an homage to the historic bottles from the XVIII century), could just be it.
The “world greatest Champagne you’ve never heard of”.
Ruinart actually holds the title as the oldest Champagne House. It was founded in 1729 by Nicolas Ruinart, whose uncle, Dom Thierry Ruinart (1657 – 1709), was a friend of fellow Benedictine monk Dom Perignon and one of the first to recognise the potential of “making wine with bubbles.” Exclusive to France for many, many years, acquisition by luxury goods magnate LMVH (who also own Veuve Clicquot, Moet & Chandon and Krug) saw a recent expanding into (very) selected outlets in America. Six cuvees from 576 hectares are produced, about 2.5 million bottles annually. Once bottled, Champagne is stored in eight kilometres of chalk mines on three different levels, for between 6-8 years. The bottles are turned one or twice a day by a team of “remuers” - master turners who instinctively know if the bottle requires an eighth, a sixteenth or a full turn. So important to the heritage of France is the product, that the mines were made a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2015.
The fizz bizz
Many vintages of Ruinart are the contender for its world greatest champagne status, and at around €250 for a bottle of 2004 of what many consider its “best” wine Dom Ruinart, so far Ruinart’s under the spectrum status works in investor’s favour. However, with popularity gathering speed stateside whether this Ruinart is to follow in the footsteps of others owned by LMVH, remains to be seen.
Notable facts and vintages
- 40% of US champagne sales take place in the month of December, is it no wonder then with celebratory cuvées such as Dom Ruinart’s Blanc des Blancs 2002 which garnered 96 points from Wine Advocate and 18/20 from Jancis Robinson that (historically, for the past couple of years) prices tend to jump around +5% in the short period between November to January? Cheers, indeed.
- One of the pricier and most sought-after rosé Champagnes, Dom Ruinart Rose Millesime 2002 was given 96 points by Antonio Galloni, and 95 points from Wine Spectator and a single bottle averages around €230 as of April 2019.
- Asia’s boundless appetite for fine French wines is not lost on Ruinart; a single bottle (with a scuffed foil no less) of Dom Ruinart Blanc des Blancs 1961 sold at auction (Sotheby’s/HK) for the equivalent of €819 in September 2018.