Wine guide
Domaine Coche-Dury
Every now and then comes along a thing that gains such a loyal fanbase that it is considered a cult. Domaine Coche Dury is such a thing; a gentle giant of a producer, Coche Dury is the little black dress of the wine world - always in style yet never in vogue. Incredibly popular overseas, Coche Dury is far and away the people’s choice when it comes to white Burgundy.
One case, one customer
Named “perhaps the greatest winemaker on Earth” by Robert Parker Jn (which could explain Coche Dury’s popularity stateside), it would be hard to find fault with his exceptionally intense, powerful and long-lived wines. The white Burgundy wines are made in the image of their maker: quiet, humble, exceptionally qualified and just very, very, nice. Coche Dury is so much in demand that 100% of the product is sold prior to harvest, and yield is so low (3,500 - 4,200 cases for all 14 wines produced) that many negociants only offer a “one case one customer” policy.
Within those 14 wines, nine 100% Chardonnay (with one Grand Cru, Corton Charlemagne, and three Premier Cru Meursault Perrieres, Meursault Caillerets, Meursault Genevrieres) and five 100% Pinot Noir (one Grand Cru, the Volnay) are produced. The lack of Grand Crus makes Coche Dury even more exceptional, ergo more covetable. Citing his success as being down to “talent and dedication” as well as “simple hard work”, Coche Dury has shunned the spotlight that many of its neighbours has flourished in (we’re looking at you Romanee Conti) and has thus avoided many of the drawbacks that the fashionable wines, particularly white Burgundy wines, might have had.
Within those 14 wines, nine 100% Chardonnay (with one Grand Cru, Corton Charlemagne, and three Premier Cru Meursault Perrieres, Meursault Caillerets, Meursault Genevrieres) and five 100% Pinot Noir (one Grand Cru, the Volnay) are produced. The lack of Grand Crus makes Coche Dury even more exceptional, ergo more covetable. Citing his success as being down to “talent and dedication” as well as “simple hard work”, Coche Dury has shunned the spotlight that many of its neighbours has flourished in (we’re looking at you Romanee Conti) and has thus avoided many of the drawbacks that the fashionable wines, particularly white Burgundy wines, might have had.
Low yield - high price
From an investors point of view, Coche Durys can cost an absolute fortune. The legendary holy grail Corton-Charlemagne 2010 can command prices as high as €5,809 per bottle, over 3000% higher than the average price for other Chardonnays of the same year. The 2001 vintage – scoring 98-100 from Parker – increased by more than 50% in value between 2010 and 2014, and now collectors of this famed wine will be lucky to find a bottle for less than €3,486. Again, supply and demand is a factor, with very low yield the famous Burgundy whites soar in value even before they have been bottled.
Notable facts and vintages
- Nearly all the whites deserve 5 years’ age but will keep for 10 or more.
- Because of their scarcity, it is unusual to find Coche-Dury wines at reasonable prices on the open market.
- Domaine Coche-Dury’s Meursault has really captured critic attention and is regarded as the top wine in the region, yet often sells for less than its estate counterparts. Its potential is clear, with growth between 130 and 500% over five years, depending on the vintage.